Type E EZ-Stop Split and Bay Bus Disk Brake Kit Instructions

Type E EZ-Stop '63 1/2-'70 Split/Bay Bus Disk Brake Kit Instructions.

This kit was designed to be an affordable and simple split bus disk brake kit that FITS STOCK 14" and 15" BUS WHEELS!!  We designed this kit to be an easy bolt-on install with all of the required bits and pieces to make the install a breeze.  Installation will require basic tools and knowledge of your vehicle.  You will need to have an understanding of the front wheel bearing removal and replacement, and brake bleeding procedures.  If you are unsure, please consult your factory service manual, or have a professional install the kit for you.  These part numbers apply to BOTH the split and early Baywindow kits.  The install procedure is near identical as well. 


Before you start, you will need to visit you favorite local auto parts store and get the rest of the heavy parts for the kit.  These are the quantities, part numbers, and applications for the brake rotors, calipers, and pads.  These are Napa part numbers, but most any decent store will be able to cross reference the number, or just look them up by application. 



Here a couple part numbers you can take to your parts store to have them cross reference.  Some rotors have been found to have shorter lug studs that will leave 2 threads not engaged in the lug nut.  The Durago rotors have been used successfully, and they have full thread engagement.

ACDelco 18A87A
Bendix 141233 
NAPA 85727
Wagner BD60627
Centric brand rotors have been found to have the wrong ID on the outer bearing race. 

Application is a ‘82-‘88 Monte Carlo Front brake rotor. '82-'92 Chevy Camero FRONT brake rotor,  '82-'95 s-10 2wd RWD trucks, '82'-'87 El Camino.  If you use the Camero for your application, DO NOT get the “performance package” rotor  they are larger diameter, and the outer bearing is wrong.

Here is a link to the rotors on Rock Auto.  Make sure to get FRONT rotors.

Rockauto Rotor Link 

Quantity 2.

They usually have a few different grades.  You can also order these in drilled, slotted, or performance versions online.  Pick the grade or style that suits your needs and budget.



Here a couple part numbers you can take to your parts store to have them cross reference. 

ACDelco 18FR691 front left caliper
ACDelco 18FR692 front right caliper
Raybestos RC4233 front left caliper
Raybestos RC4234 front right caliper 

The application for the calipers is a 1989 Chevy Celebrity with the GM Brake Code JA2 Or JA8; Medium And Heavy Duty Brakes, for the 260mm rotors.  These were also used on '83-'90 Buick Century.

Here is a link to the calipers on Rock Auto.  Enter JA8 into the search to narrow it down to the larger Heavy Duty option.  JUST MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM FOR 260mm ROTORS. 


Rock Auto Calipers Link



The light duty JA1 calipers for the 246mm rotor will NOT work with this kit!

Quantity 1 each side.

Make sure to check the price on the cores since you do not have cores to return.  Get calipers with the least expensive core charge. There are a few different grades of calipers, so pick the ones that fits your preference and budget.  Also make sure to get calipers listed as "w/hardware".  These will come with the bolt/pins and banjo bolts for the hoses.  

If your calipers do not come with the pins and bushings, you will need to get a DORMAN HW5033 kit.


If you do not get banjo bolts with the new calipers, most any decent parts store should have these on hand. 

DORMAN 484205 banjo bolt.  Thread: M10-1.5; Length; 22.8mm; Hex: 11mm

It might be a good idea to order a pair of banjo bolts at the same time.  Some calipers are not supplied with them. 




Here is a list of a few different brake pad manufactures part numbers that will cross reference. 

ACDelco 171-542
Bendix  PMD215IM
Centric Parts 105.02150
Raybestos Brakes BD215M
Wagner SX7136

Application is 1989 Chevy Celebrity front brake pad set.  For the 10.26" rotor HD brake option. 

Here is a link to the brake pads on Rock Auto.  Enter JA8 into the search to narrow it down to the larger Heavy Duty option.  LOOK FOR THE 260mm ROTOR DIAMETER!!


Rock Auto Brake Pads Link


MAKE SURE TO USE THE "JA2 OR JA8" MEDIUM AND HEAVY DUTY 10.26" ROTOR BRAKE OPTION.  The light duty pads will not work with this kit. 

There is a huge selection of brake pads available.  Low/Mid/High grade, all depend on price, noise, stopping, and longevity.  The super cheap pads are usually noisy, dusty, and don't last long.  Pick whichever will suit your needs the best. 

Quantity 1


You might also want to pick up a bottle of brake fluid while you are there.  You will need it during the brake bleeding procedure. 



-To start the install, lift the front of your bus high enough to remove the wheels, and place sturdy jack stands under the beam. 

-Remove the front wheels.

-Remove the speedometer cable from the drivers side, and then dust caps.

-Remove the spindle lock nuts.

-Remove the brake drum.

-Remove the 4 bolts holding the brake backing plate to the spindle, and hang the backing plate off to the side, leaving the rubber brake hose attached.  This will keep the brake fluid from leaking out while you work on the new disk brake install. The backing plates will be removed later,and they will NOT be re-used with the new disk brake kit. 

-Do any desired cleaning or painting to the spindle now.  Inspect the spindle where the bearing race's ride, and make sure there is no excessive wear.  Also clean the spindle threads good.

-Now you can begin the install of the new parts. 

-Bolt the new caliper bracket to the spindle with the included m10x25mm bolts.  The bracket needs to point towards the rear, and be offset towards the center of the vehicle.  Torque these bolts to 30ft.lbs.


This is what the passenger side should look like .


-Remove the new bearings from their boxes, and test fit them on the spindle. Make sure they slide on nice and smooth. If they hang up, check the spindle for burrs. Remove any burrs if needed with a fine file or sandpaper. Next, pack the bearings with a good wheel bearing grease.  Install the inner bearing into the rotor. 

The thin spacer included needs to be installed against the inner bearing.  The chamfer on the spacer needs to face away from the bearing, and towards the center of the bus. I like to use a little grease between it and the bearing to hold it in place. 


Last, lube and install the wheel seal into the back of the rotor.  The seal might look backwards, but it is correct.  Make sure the wider part of the tapered rubber lip is facing out.  It will need to be able to slide up onto the wider shoulder at the base of the spindle snout. 

-Pack and install the smaller outer bearing in the hub.

-Carefully slide the rotor over the spindle shaft, and rotate it as it gets near the end to help the seal onto its surface.   Pay attention to the wheel seal, and make sure it goes up over the large diameter shoulder on the spindle spud. 

-Re-install the spindle washer and the spindle nuts.  Tighten them down according to the factory service manual.

-For the baywindow guys, or split guys using bay style spindle nuts, you might need to zip the outside corners of the spindle nuts with a grinder.  The extra material on the nuts might hit the inside of the dust caps.  It doesn’t take much, and it will not effect the strength of the nut at all.  


-Make sure the rotors spin nice and smooth. 

-Install the included grease caps.  The cap with the square hole goes on the drivers side.  Then re-install the speedo cable on the drivers side. 

-Install the new brake pads into the new caliper. 

-Install the calipers over the rotor and into the caliper bracket.  The calipers are sided and you need to make sure the bleeders are pointing up.  Some calipers have an R or L cast in them.  These were for the original GM car the calipers came on.  DO NOT use the letters for RIGHT or LEFT reference on your bus.  The bus is opposite. 

Make sure the bleeder valves are facing up, or they will not bleed correctly!!

-Tighten the caliper bolts to 38ft.lbs.  The lower bolt is a little tricky to get too, but the short leg of a standard "L" shaped allen will work fine. 

-Remove the metal clip and remove the original rubber brake hose from the hard line at the frame. 

-Quickly install the new rubber hose between the hard line at the frame, and the new caliper.

-Use one copper washer on each side of the rubber hose fitting.  It should be caliper, copper washer, rubber hose fitting, copper washer, banjo bolt.  The hose also has an offset in the caliper side fitting. Make sure the flat side is facing the caliper. 

It should look like this when it’s all together.

-Tighten the connections on the brake hose.  The banjo bolt should be torqued to 30ftlbs.

-Make sure the rotor still spins nice.  A slight drag on the new brake pads will be fine, but there should be no binding.

-Add the smaller diameter spacer over the wheel studs.

-Add the large wheel adapter with the studs next, followed by the last spacer.  The last 3/8" spacer is needed to clear the stock wheels.  If you are running aftermarket 5x205mm wheels, you might be able to eliminate the outer spacers and only run the adapter plate and the inner spacer.  You will need to test fit your wheel to make sure the inside of the wheel clears the caliper without hitting anything. 
-Using a 19mm socket, torque the included 12mm lug nuts to 80 ft.lbs.  
-If you haven't upgraded the master cylinder, do that now.


-If you have already upgraded to a dual master cylinder, check to see if you have a residual pressure valve on the outlet to the line going to the front wheels.  If so, you will need to remove it. If you purchased a Type E '67 style master cylinder kit at the same time you ordered the brake kit, the valve has already been removed, and you are ready to install the master. 

-DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE VALVE FOR THE REAR LINE IF YOU ARE USING DRUM BRAKES IN THE REAR.  Drum brakes need the 1.5lbs residual pressure to keep the brake shoes pumped up and close to the drum. 

-If you are running disk brakes in the rear of your bus, you will need to also remove the valve for the rear brake line.

-To do this, unscrew the fitting from the master cylinder.

-Clamp the hex part of the fitting in a vice, and pop the round tin cover off with a pair of pliers.  The springs and check ball will fall out.  Throw these parts away. 
-Your fitting should now be hollow.
-Replace the fitting into the master cylinder, and hook the brake line back up. 


-If you are replacing the master cylinder at this time, MAKE SURE you bench bleed the master cylinder.  This will save you hours of heartache trying to get all the air out of the system. 

-You should now be ready to bleed the brakes according to the factory service manual. 

-Reinstall and re-torque your wheels and you are ready to drive.